Quick Links: KC Hilites w slimlite off road light? Driving lights in fog light holes? Post Reply. I take no responsibility if you hurt yourself or your truck, this is a reference only! After installing my step bars, I decided to wire up some running board lights that operate when the doors are open or unlocked i. We'll see how they hold up, but regardless, this approach is a good reference for just about anything, just be sure to use a relay if you use anything other than low-current LEDs.
Before you begin, disconnect the battery. I wanted the lights to turn on and off with the dome light i. As previously mentioned, I chose a low-current LED solution, so I can directly power them off the stock power wire and ground wire According to the stock wiring diagrams available elsewhere on TW and the Haynes manual, the power wire is a constantly powered 7.
The easiest place to locate them is the driver's side pillar. The 7. Here you can see the tapped white power wire and the blue control wire. Be sure to tuck the wires back into the conduit and zip ties for strain relief.
After running the wires down to the left kick panel, I ran a quick test to make sure I tapped the correct wires. I chose to run the passenger side wire through the cab instead of underneath the truck in order to avoid the exhaust and road hazards. The connection will be made near the left kick panel where I plan to insert an override switch and a 1A fuse to specifically protect against the LEDs and wires I continued to run the wires underneath the door sill trim You can also see the black wire I previously ran for my bed lights.
Here is the completed driver side wiring. Be sure to properly connect the wires solder is best and protect them using plenty of heat shrink, conduit, and electrical tape. I didn't want to drill mounting holes into the truck, so I opted to use strong double sided trim tape the stuff that holds your emblems on the truck.
Be certain to clean the areas well with alcohol to promote a strong connection. Also, you'll need to wrap the conduit with electrical tape or else the double sided tape won't hold sufficiently. Note: in this pic you can see the grey wire running down from the grommet as well as both the front and rear lights.
With most brands, this simply involves pressing a light bar straight into the bracket until you hear a snap. Now that the actual lights are in place, turn your focus to wiring everything correctly! Part 2. Plug the wires from the light bars into the labeled wires from the box.
After making the connections, use zip ties to secure the wires along the perimeter of the engine bay, away from any moving parts or heat sources.
Remove the cable from the negative terminal of the vehicle battery. Use a socket wrench or crescent wrench to loosen the nut that holds the thick cable against the negative black battery terminal, pull or lift the cable free of the terminal, and lay it aside.
Then, loosen the nut holding the other thick cable to the positive red battery terminal, but leave the cable in place. Attach the box's red and black wires to the same-color battery terminals.
Identify the red and black wires coming from the control box that have what look like 2-pronged metal forks at their ends. Slide the prongs of the black wire over the black, negative - terminal, put the thick cable back in place, and tighten the nut over both of them.
Refer to your product guide for specific instructions. Part 3. Identify the positive wire for the battery-side marker or side light. Side lights are usually located to the inside of the headlights, while marker lights are typically to the outside. Find the side or marker light on the same side of the vehicle as the battery, then find the wires coming from it into the engine bay.
Use your owner's manual to determine which wire is the positive wire. Temporarily mark it with a piece of tape if you wish. These lights illuminate when the engine is on but the headlights are off, and shut off when the headlights are on. The goal here is to connect your running lights to one of these lights so that they also illuminate and turn off at the same time. It may be a requirement where you live for the running lights to turn off when the headlights are on. Intersect the labeled wire from the box with the positive wire you found.
Run it around the perimeter of the engine compartment until it meets with the positive wire for the battery-side marker or side light. If not, buy one at an auto supply store. Clamp one piece of the T-tap over the positive wire you identified.
T-tap connectors separate into 2 parts—one each for the horizontal top and vertical bottom sections of a capital T. Open the top section, lay the positive wire into the channel, and snap the top section closed firmly over the wire.
Clamp the control box wire and plug the 2 T-tap sections together. Lift open the bottom section of the T-tap, lay the wire coming from the control box in the channel, and snap the bottom section shut. Then, plug the 2 sections of the T-tap together. Here are more details on how to install and wire your running board lights. Most states have specific laws on the use of accent lighting and other vehicle modifications with restrictions on color, form, type, and mounting location on the vehicle.
Running boards are legal, but they are limited to one on each side and must be non-glare white or amber. No other colors are allowed, and if they do, they should not be visible from any direction, be unlit on public roads and do not flash or flicker.
It is illegal if the lights cause any visual impairment or distract other drivers. Most states accept white and amber running lights, but blue and red are illegal to use because they are for police and other emergency vehicles. For instance, some states like South Carolina do not allow any red, blue, or flashing lights on any side of the vehicle, whether visible or not unless it is an emergency vehicle.
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