The exhaust passes out through the exhaust ports into the outside air. Openings in the cylinder allow gases to pass into and out of the combustion chamber. The ports are opened or closed by the upward and downward movement of the piston. Allow the burned gases to pass out of the combustion chamber. The expanding combustion gases force the piston down. The downward piston travel causes a pressure buildup in the crankcase.
The piston uncovers the exhaust port first, followed by the transfer ports. As the piston travels upward the sequence is repeated. Here the ports are located on three sides of the cylinder; the intake ports are on two sides opposite each other, and the exhaust ports are illustrated by the three holes just above the head of the piston. A third port is for entry of the fuel-air and oil mixture to the crankcase.
From the crankcase the fuel-air mixture enters the combustion chamber through the intake ports. The third port is controlled by the piston skirt. A reed valve is activated by crankcase pressure or vacuum. A decrease in crankcase pressure opens the reed allowing the fuel air and oil mixture to enter the crankcase.
Increased crankcase pressure closes the valve, preventing escape of the fuel-air and oil mixture back through the carburetor. Tecumseh 2-cycle engines are lubricated by a gas oil mix. The correct mix ratio of oil and gas combines with air in the venturi and enters the crankcase.
During engine operation the oil clings to all the internal moving parts for lubrication. Dust bypassing an improper or damaged air filter can quickly damage an engine. Always make certain covers and air cleaner connections are tightly sealed to prevent entry of dirt. When excessive carburetor adjustment or loss of power results, inspect the air filter for clogging.
NOTE: Use factory recommended parts only. These serviceable air cleaners utilize a polyurethane element which will clog up with use. The element should be cleaned and serviced in the following manner.
Wash element in a detergent and water solution and squeeze don t twist until all dirt is removed. Rinse thoroughly. This system uses a polyurethane type element.
Service as described under polyurethane-type air cleaner. When removing air cleaner body from carburetor, remove plug in the body to gain access to the mounting screw. Make certain plug is put back in place. If it shows damage, replace. Wrap in clean cloth and squeeze don t twist until completely dry. Clean air cleaner housing and cover. Dry thoroughly. Re-oil element by applying generous quantity of oil to all sides. Squeeze vigorously to distribute oil and to remove excess oil.
Replace air filter once a year or more often in extremely dusty or dirty conditions. Be sure to clean base and cover thoroughly before installing new paper filter. When reassembling polyurethane oval type air cleaners, place cupped screen into housing with edge against carburetor end of housing. Screen should be installed to hold element away from housing to allow full utilization of air cleaner element.
NOTE: Polyurethane type filters will lose effectiveness if stored for extended periods of time, due to oil migration settling Down through the filter. Re-oil filter as necessary. NOTE: Serious damage to the engine may result in using any other but the specified part number filter. Use factory recommended parts only. Tecumseh carburetors are identified by a manufacturing number and code date stamped on the carburetor as illustrated. When servicing carburetors, you may use either the engine model specification number or the manufacturing number on the carburetor to properly identify.
Information regarding replacement parts or kits are available in the master parts manual, microfiche catalog or electronic parts look-up systems. Tecumseh uses two basic types of carburetors for their 2 cycle engines, float-type and diaphragm. Float-type carburetors use a hollow metal float to maintain the operating level of fuel in the carburetor. As the fuel is used, the fuel level in the carburetor bowl drops and the float moves downward. This actuates the inlet needle valve, to allow fuel to flow into the fuel bowl.
As the fuel level in the bowl again rises, so will the float. This float action adjusts the fuel flow and keeps the fuel at the proper mixture level. Some carburetors are of the fixed main type. On these models, the main adjusting screw and nut are replaced by a fixed main jet bowl nut. Tecumseh diaphragm carburetors use the diaphragm as a metering device. As the intake manifold pressure decreases due to downward piston travel, the atmospheric pressure on the vented side of the diaphragm moves the diaphragm against the inlet needle.
The diaphragm movement overcomes the spring tension on the inlet needle and moves the inlet needle off the seat. This permits the fuel to flow through the inlet valve to maintain the correct fuel volume in the fuel chamber. The inlet needle return spring closes the inlet valve when the pressure on the diaphragm equalizes or a pressure higher than atmospheric exists on the intake side upward piston travel.
The diaphragm meters a correct fuel volume in the fuel chamber to be delivered to the mixing passages and discharge ports. A main or idle adjustment needle may be replaced by an internally fixed jet on some models. The main nozzle contains a ball check valve. The main purpose of this ball check is to eliminate air being drawn down the main nozzle during idle speeds and leaning the idle mixture.
An advantage of the diaphragm carburetor over the float system is that the diaphragm carburetor increases the angle that the engine may be operated at. As the engine starts to rotate the downward piston travel will create a low air pressure area in the engine cylinder above the piston.
Higher pressure atmospheric air rushes into the engine to fill the created low pressure area. Since the majority of the air passage is blocked by the choke shutter, a relatively small quantity of air enters the carburetor at increased speed.
The main nozzle and both idle fuel discharge ports are supplying fuel due to the low air pressure in the intake of the engine. A maximum fuel flow through the carburetor orifices combined with the reduced quantity of air that passes through the carburetor, make a very rich fuel mixture which is needed to start a cold engine.
At engine IDLE speed, a relatively small amount of fuel is required to operate the engine. The throttle is almost completely closed. Air flows through the carburetor at high speed. The venturi, which decreases the size of the air passage through the carburetor, further accelerates the air flow. This high speed movement of the air decreases the air pressure at the main nozzle opening. Fuel is forced out the main nozzle opening due the difference in the atmospheric air pressure on the fuel in the carburetor bowl and the reduced air pressure at the main nozzle opening.
Carefully disassemble carburetor, removing all non-metallic parts, i. Nylon check balls used in some diaphragm carburetors are not serviceable. Nylon can be damaged if subjected to harsh cleaners for prolonged periods. Remove the primer bulb if equipped by grasping with a pliers and pulling and twisting out of the body. Remove the retainer by prying and lifting out with a screwdriver.
Do not re-use old bulb or retainer. Remove all welch plugs if cleaning the carburetor. Secure the carburetor in a vise equipped with protective jaws. Drive the chisel into the plug to pierce the metal and push down on the chisel to pry the plug out of the hole. Clean all metallic parts with solvent. To install a new welch plug after cleaning, place welch plug into receptacle with raised portion up. With a punch equal to the size of the plug, merely flatten the plug.
Do not dent or drive the center plug below the top surface of the carburetor. After installing the welch plug, seal the outer diameter with finger nail polish. Do not use clear polish. Examine the throttle lever and plate prior to disassembly.
When reassembling, it is important that the lines on the throttle plate are facing out when in the closed position. Position throttle plates with the two lines at 12 and 3 o clock.
If throttle plate has only one line, the line should be positioned in the 12 o clock position. If binding occurs, correct by loosening the screws and repositioning the throttle plate. Examine the choke lever and shaft at the bearing points and holes into which the linkage is fastened, and replace if worn or damaged. The choke plate is inserted into the air horn of the carburetor in such a position, that the flat side of the choke is down. Before disassembly note the direction of choke plate movement.
Choke plates will operate in either direction. Make sure it is assembled properly for your engine. The fuel bowl must be free of dirt and corrosion. When disassembling a carburetor for repair, always replace the fuel bowl O ring. Lubricate the O ring with a small amount of oil for easier installation.
Install the float bowl by placing the detent portion opposite of the hinge pin. Make sure the deepest end of the bowl is opposite of the inlet needle.
The bowl has a small dimple located in the deepest part. The purpose of this dimple is to minimize the chances of the float sticking to the bottom of the bowl caused by stale fuel. Remove the adjusting screws from the carburetor body and examine the point, replace the screws if damaged. Tension is maintained on the screw with a coil spring. Examine and replace the O ring seal s if damaged.
NOTE: If screws are made of plastic, dip the end of the screw in oil before installation to prevent damage. The fuel bowl retaining nut has a fixed main jet incorporated in the nut. This small jet must be clean for proper fuel metering. Clean by using compressed air. Float-type carburetors must have atmospheric air pressure acting against the fuel in the fuel bowl.
These vents can be external, with a hole drilled through the side of the carburetor casting or internal where atmospheric air is picked up in the air horn near the air cleaner.
Regardless of the type, these vents must be clear and free from dirt, paint, grease, etc. Remove the float by pulling out the float hinge pin. Lift the float away from the carburetor body. This will also lift the inlet needle out of the seat. Examine the float for damage. Check the float hinge bearing surfaces for wear, as well as the tab that contacts the inlet needle.
Replace any damaged or worn parts. Float sticking can occur due to fuel deposits gum or varnish. Push the hook through the hole in the center of the seat and remove it. Never reuse the old seat, always replace it with a new seat. If the required adjustment is minor, the tab adjustment may be made without removing float and carefully inserting a small bladed screwdriver to bend the tab.
Be careful not to damage other parts. To install a new seat, make sure the seat cavity is clean, then moisten the seat with a drop of oil to help it slide into place. Be sure to drain any fuel into an approved container. Invert the carburetor and remove the float bowl. Place a drop of an oil based product such as WD on the tip of the needle valve. Using a commercially available psi pump and gauge, attach the pumps hose to the carburetor inlet.
Apply approximately 6 psi or until the needle pops off the seat. The needle should seat at 1. If the minimum 1. The idle on the Series 8 is metered using a threaded restrictor See illustration. Proper torque of this restrictor is critical, it should be torqued to in. When the restrictor is placed in the idle circuit passage it is capped with a tamper resistant plastic cap. If the jet is removed for cleaning it must be recapped to prevent tampering when it is re-installed.
The inlet needle hooks onto the float tab by means of a spring clip. To prevent binding, the long, straight, open end of the clip must face the choke end of the carburetor as shown. The procedure for setting the float height is as follows. Remove the bowl gasket, then hold the carburetor in the inverted position. Place the drill bit across the carburetor body opposite and parallel to the float hinge pin. Adjust the float height by bending the tab on the float until it touches the bit.
To install, start the retainer and bulb into the casting with the retainer tabs pointed out. With the choke plate and shaft removed, blow compressed air through the high speed air bleed located just behind the lower choke shaft bearing and immediately in front of the venturi to remove any dirt that may have accumulated. Blow compressed air through all of the passages, making sure they are free of dirt, varnish or foreign material.
Inspect diaphragms for cracks, tears or brittleness. Replace if necessary. Rivet head on diaphragm must always face toward the inlet needle valve. If there is no designation, the sequence is gasket, diaphragm and cover. When removing choke and throttle shafts, check shafts and bearings in carburetor body for wear. Any looseness in these areas can cause dirt to enter the engine resulting in premature wear. If dust seals are present, they should be positioned next to the carburetor body.
Install the dust seal, metal washer, and finally the return spring. Welch plugs should be removed for proper cleaning of the carburetor See welch plug service at the beginning of this section. When all accessories and shafts have been removed, soak the carburetor in carburetor cleaner for a maximum of 30 minutes. Blow out all passages with compressed air in the opposite direction of normal fuel flow.
The carburetor body on non-emission carburetors contains a main nozzle tube pressed into the carburetor body to a predetermined depth within the venturi of the carburetor. DO NOT attempt to remove this main nozzle.
Any movement of this nozzle will seriously affect the metering characteristics of the carburetor. Emissions carburetors have a serviceable plastic nozzle. Clean the well surrounding the main nozzle with carburetor. Use a socket to remove inlet needle and seat. Replace with complete assembly. Main Menu with primers must have a check valve located in or behind the fuel inlet fitting of the carburetor.
This is to prevent fuel from being forced back to the fuel line and tank when priming. Two types of check valves have been used. One is a brass check valve pushed into the carburetor body in the fuel inlet. The other is a teflon disc located in the area under the fuel fitting.
These two types of check valves are not interchangeable. Turn a nut on to a tap and slide a washer on after it. Be sure to install in the same position as the original. When installing fitting, insert tip into the carburetor body, then coat the exposed portion of the shank with Loctite Blue; then press it in, until the shoulder contacts the carburetor body. Turn the tap with nut and washer into the valve until the tap begins to protrude through the valve when viewed through the inlet needle and seat opening.
Turn the nut clockwise to pull the valve out from the carburetor body. Pressing the bulb creates air pressure against the diaphragm. Fully depress primer bulb with your thumb, making sure that the vent hole in bulb is covered.
Release and allow bulb to return to original position. The teflon disc-type can be cleaned by using low air pressure forced into the inlet fitting. If service is required, pull out inlet fuel fitting and replace the teflon disc. Put a drop of oil on the disc and position in the cavity of the carburetor. Replace fuel inlet fitting as outlined in Fuel Inlet Fitting instructions. As the diaphragm lifts, the inlet needle is lifted off its seat and the fuel within the reservoir is fed up through the passages into the air horn.
A one-way valve in the body prevents the fuel from being forced back into the fuel tank. Loosen screw until it just clears throttle lever, then turn screw in 1 turn. Do not attempt to remove. Blow air through passage. Check float for leaks or dents. Clean bowl and adjust float level position gasket or gaskets.
Set float to proper level. The check ball is a non serviceable item. Head of rivet must touch inlet needle. Hole must be clean. On models with primer bulb, vent hole is very small and is located off center or in the primer bulb. Place detent reference mark to proper location. See chapter appropriate to specific carburetor.
The idle mixture screw is located on the top of the carburetor near the engine. This carburetor has been manufactured with 2 different types of inlet needle and seats. One has a hard needle with a synthetic rubber seat, the other has a nonreplaceable brass seat with a synthetic rubber tipped needle.
Outboard carburetors have a built-in fuel pump consisting of a fuel pump element which inflates and deflates with crankcase pulses which opens and closes two flap valves in the fuel pump, thereby pumping fuel from a remote tank to the carburetor float bowl. When replacing the fuel pump element, install with the slot opening at a 45 o angle as illustrated. On the outside of the element, suction opens the inlet flap drawing a supply of fuel from the tank and lines into the cavity created by the deflating pump element.
Then position the extended end of the choke rod spring on the idle adjustment rod and align the spring with the choke rod holes in the bracket. Press the choke rod through the bracket and spring with the link attaching hole toward the carburetor side. Install the choke shaft link in the rod, then install the other end in the choke lever.
This pressurized fuel acts against the outlet flap valve, opening it, allowing a head of pressurized fuel to be transmitted to the inlet needle and seat port. The inlet valve is pressed against the inlet port, sealing it so that pressurized fuel does not escape back into the fuel tank and lines.
The rod should turn about a half turn before contacting the extended end of the choke spring. Tighten the control bracket screw. Pull the choke rod to assure that the choke shutter closes. Make sure the flaps are in good condition and the strainer is not clogged or damaged. Replace as necessary. Make sure the cover is not warped; check by laying on a flat surface.
If warped, replace. If not warped severely, it can be refaced using a hard surface and emery cloth. Notches on the carburetor body insure that the gasket, valve, and cover are positioned on the body correctly. When tightening screws, snug bottom screw, then top screw and torque to in. Install the idle adjustment rod into the bracket then turn the setscrew The absence of adjustment screws indicate fixed jets with no adjustments necessary.
To pre-set the idle speed, back out the screw, then turn in until the screw just touches the throttle lever. Finally, turn the screw in one 1 turn. Once the engine is running and brought up to operating temperature minutes , the final idle R. This setting is approximate and will be enough to allow the engine to start so that final carburetor adjustments can be made. Start the engine and allow it to warmup for approximately 5 minutes.
Do not adjust the carburetor with the engine cold. Turn the mixture adjusting screw clockwise until the engine starts to falter, remember this location. Next turn the screw counterclockwise until the engine start to sputter or drops in R.
Now turn the screw clockwise until it is halfway between these two locations. This will be the optimum carburetor setting. This setting will allow the engine to be started so that the carburetor can be fine tuned.
Do not adjust the carburetor when the engine is cold. Start the engine and let it warm-up for approximately 5 minutes. NOTE: On dual adjust, the first adjustment must be made with the main mixture screw.
With the engine running, turn the mixture adjustment screw clockwise until the engine starts to falter, remember this location. Next turn the screw counterclockwise until the engine starts to sputter or drop in R. With dual adjust carburetor, repeat the above steps for the second idle mixture adjusting screw.
Carburetor out of adjustment Clean carburetor after removing all non-metallic parts that are serviceable. Trace all passages. Dirt or restriction in fuel system clean tank and fuel strainers, check for kinks or sharp bends. Examine throttle and choke shafts for binding or excessive play remove all dirt or paint, replace shaft. Adjust main mixture adjustment screw.
Some models require finger tight adjustment. Check to see that it is the correct screw. Adjust idle mixture adjustment screw. Adjust idle speed screw. Check position of choke and throttle plates. Adjust control cable or linkage to assure full choke and carburetor control. Check sealing of welch plugs, cups, plugs and gaskets. Check fuel pump operation pump element, inner and outer one way valves. Adjust governor linkage. Adjust float setting.
Check float shaft for wear and float for leaks or dents. Check seal for fuel drain or bowl gasket. Is carburetor operating at excessive angle? Check diaphragm for cracks or distortion and check nylon check ball for function. Check sequence of gasket and diaphragm for the particular carburetor being repaired. Check spring tension on idle governor if present. Use the parts manual to obtain the same fuel inlet fitting that was installed in the original carburetor. Install the fuel fitting in the new carburetor body in the same position as on the original carburetor.
Support the carburetor body with a wood block to avoid damage to other parts. Use a bench vise or press to install the fitting squarely. Press it in until it bottoms out. Use a pliers or vise to remove the plastic part of the inlet fitting.
Turn it in until it contacts the throttle lever. Then an additional 1 turn for a static setting. Remove the choke shutter screw from the original carburetor and remove the choke shaft. Observe the position of the ends of the choke return spring if one is present. Some chokes turn clockwise and some turn counterclockwise, note the position of the choke shaft prior to removal from the old carburetor. If a choke stop spring is present on the new carburetor and is not used on the old carburetor, cut it off with a side cutter or pull it out using a pliers.
Test the action of choke shaft to make sure it moves freely and easily and does not bind in either open or closed position. If binding occurs, loosen the shutter screw; reposition the shutter and tighten the screw. Install the throttle spring and lever on the new carburetor with the self-tapping screw furnished. If dust seals are furnished, install them under the return spring. All Tecumseh 2 cycle engines covered in this book are equipped with pneumatic air vane governors.
Air vane governors are controlled by the air velocity created by fins on the flywheel. Changes in the engine R. The throttle is opened as the engine R.
The air velocity exerts pressure on the air vane while a governor spring exerts pressure against the air velocity force. The air vane pivots on the engine flange or is attached to the throttle shaft of the carburetor. M drop, the air velocity also drops, allowing the governor spring to pull open the throttle shaft and increase engine speed.
The best method is to record the linkage attachment points prior to disassembly and reinstall the same way. Illustrations showing most governor and linkage hookups are pictured in this section. Select the diagram that resembles the engine you are servicing. Rotate sleeve clockwise to increase R. NOTE: The sleeve is serrated to rotate in a clockwise direction and must be raised using the sleeve tabs before it can be rotated counterclockwise. To disassemble, remove choke shutter with needlenose pliers; the vane assembly may then be removed from the carburetor.
Horizontal shaft engines use side mounted starters which can be mounted to pull either vertically or horizontally. All rewind starters except the vertical pull style turn the engine over by engaging a dog s into the starter cup attached to the engine flywheel.
The vertical pull starter engages the starter gear into the ring gear of the flywheel to turn the engine over. All starters are spring loaded to retract the dog s or starter gear when the engine speed exceeds the turning speed of the starter.
The retainer ears act as a ramp to fully extend the starter dog s. The fully extended starter dog s locks in contact with notches in the starter cup. When the engine fires and the rotational speed of the starter cup exceeds the starter pulley, the starter dog s disengages from the starter cup. The starter dog spring s returns the starter dog s to the disengaged position. The recoil spring turns the starter pulley in the opposite direction, retracting the starter rope until the handle contacts the stop.
Visually inspect the starter dog s , starter cup, retainer, springs, rope, washers, and the starter pulley for wear or breakage.
Use one of the following procedures that applies to your application, to disassemble, repair, and assemble the starter. Always consult the Tecumseh Master Parts Manual for the correct replacement parts. Consult the Tecumseh Master Parts Manual to obtain the correct part number, length, and size required. Use the following rope chart to convert a numbered rope to a fractional diameter for bulk rope use.
Check the old rope for the right length for the application. Some applications require longer lengths. The rope ends should be cauterized by burning with a match and wiping the rope end with a cloth while hot. Use the following procedure for rope replacement. Remove the starter assembly from the engine. Pry out the staple with a small screwdriver and remove the original rope. Main Menu 3. Turn the pulley counterclockwise to fully wind the starter return spring until tight.
Hold the pulley in this position and feed the new rope through the hole and tie a left-handed knot on the rope end. Make sure the rope and knot do not protrude from the knot cavity and bind the pulley rotation. Remove the brake spring, spring retainer, washers, and pulley assembly diag. All components in need of service should be replaced. Remove the starter handle if the retainer is a complete circle design. Remove the staple and old retainer. Slide the rope retainer into the proper position and insert the staple using a pliers.
Install the starter handle and tie a left hand knot to secure the handle. After removing the rewind assembly from the engine blower housing, release the tension on the rewind spring. This can be done by removing the starter handle and carefully allowing the rope to unwind in the starter housing assembly. Set the rewind on a bench, supported on the socket. The stamped steel center pin is driven out from the top, inside the center hole. Move the punch around while driving the pin to help keep the pin straight.
Reverse the disassembly procedure. The starter dogs with the dog springs must snap back to the center of the pulley disengaged position. When the rope is pulled, the tabs on the retainer must be positioned so that they will force the starter dogs to engage the starter cup. Always replace the center spring pin with a new one upon reassembly.
Place the two new plastic washers between the center leg of the starter and the retainer. New plastic washers are provided with a new center spring pin. Discard the old plastic washer. The retainer will bend and the starter dogs will not engage the starter cup. On the stamped steel starter the center pin should be driven in until it contacts the shoulder in the starter body. Wind the starter pulley counterclockwise four or five turns to pre-load the recoil spring, thread the rope through the starter housing eyelet and tie a temporary knot in the rope.
Reattach the starter handle to the rope using a left-hand knot. Untie the temporary knot and allow the rope to recoil. Remove the handle and relieve the starter spring tension by allowing the rope to slip past the rope clip. Remove the spring cover by carefully removing the two small screws. Carefully take out the spring. Remove the center hub screw and the spring hub.
Lift off the gear and pulley assembly. Disassemble the pulley assembly by removing the snap ring and washer diag. Remove the starter rope if necessary. Replace all worn or damaged parts. Place a small amount of grease on the center shaft, place the gear and pulley into position making sure the brake spring loop is positioned over the metal tab on the bracket.
The rope clip must fit tightly onto the bracket. The raised section fits into the hole in the bracket. After removing the rewind assembly from the engine blower housing, remove the starter handle by first pulling a length of rope out using the handle, tying a temporary knot in the exposed rope, and either untying the knot in handle or prying out the staple. Install the hub and hub screw. Torque the hub screw to 45 - 55 in.
A loose hub screw will prevent the rope from retracting. Install the return spring if necessary. Install the spring cover and the cover screws. Wind the rope onto the pulley by slipping it past the rope clip. When the rope is fully wound on the pulley, wind the pulley assembly two additional turns to put tension on the spring.
Untie the temporary knot and slowly allow the rope to fully retract into the starter housing and the recoil spring to fully unwind. Remove the decal from the center of the starter housing. Use a small Phillips screwdriver or similar tool to pry the retainer legs apart and lift out the retaining wedge. Pinch the legs of the retainer together and pull on the head of the retainer to remove it from the housing. Remove the pulley assembly from the recoil housing. Repair or replace as necessary. If replacing the starter rope, see Step 8.
Install a new recoil spring if necessary by pushing the new spring out of the holder into the pulley cavity while aligning the outside spring hook into the deep notch in the pulley.
Push the spring cover in until seated. Apply a small amount of lithium grease to the inner bore of the center shaft. Replace or check that both starter dogs are in the pulley pockets and that the dog springs are hooked on the outer surface of the dog.
Main Menu 5. Pinch the two legs of the plastic retainer together and start into the center shaft hole. Rotate the retainer so the two tabs on the bottom of the part fit between the dog and pulley hub left side of the dog.
Push the retainer in until the leg prongs pop out of the center shaft. Turn the starter over and snap the locking tab between the retainer legs, replace the top decal. Wind the starter pulley counterclockwise four or five turns to pre-load the recoil spring and thread the rope through the starter housing eyelet.
Pull enough rope through to tie a temporary knot in the rope. Feed the new rope through the hole and tie a lefthanded knot on the rope end. Remove the handle if necessary by prying out the small staple in the handle with a screwdriver.
Place the starter bracket on the top of a deep well socket that is large enough to receive the head of the center pin. Use an arbor press to drive out the center pin. Rotate the spring capsule strut until it is aligned with the legs of the brake spring. This will keep the capsule in the wound position. Slip the sheave out of the bracket. Squeeze and hold tightly by hand the spring capsule at the outer edge against the gear sheave.
Remove the retainer pin from the strut and slowly relieve the spring tension by allowing the spring capsule to rotate slowly under control, until completely unwound. The spring capsule can now be removed from the gear sheave. Wind the rope on the sheave assembly clockwise, viewing the gear from the gear side of the sheave.
Reinstall the brake spring, being careful not to spread the spring more than necessary. Install the spring capsule, making sure the starter spring end hooks on the gear hub. Wind the spring four full turns and align the brake spring legs with the strut as shown. Insert the pin in the strut. Main Menu 6. If the starter is equipped with a locking or delay pawl and spring, make sure these are in place before grasping the gear and spring capsule assembly and sliding it into the bracket.
Make sure the legs of the brake spring are positioned in the slots of the bracket. Remove the pin and the strut will rotate clockwise against the bracket. Insert the new center pin by pressing or driving the pin firmly in place. Reinstall the starter assembly on the engine. Hook loop of spring into housing and wind in housing in a counterclockwise direction. The spring should have a light coating of grease on it. Place pulley into housing.
Install dog spring and dog in starter pulley in the socket closest to the rope hole in pulley. Replace brake spring, brake and install E clip. To put tension on spring, wind pulley counterclockwise until tight, then allow to unwind until the hole in the pulley lines up with the eyelet in housing, then install rope and handle.
Pull rope out to untie knot in rope and slowly release spring tension. Remove E clip, brake, brake spring, starter dog and return spring. Lift out pulley; rewind spring is located in the housing. Starters labeled CSA cannot be serviced, except for external components.
The following starter, number , is a sealed UL and CSA approved starter, and the only component that can be serviced is the drive assembly. Pinion gear parts should be checked for damage or wear. If the gear sticks on the shaft, it should be washed in solvent to remove dirt and grease, then dried thoroughly. If damaged, replace with new parts. On units with the gear under the cap assembly, use the following procedure for disassembly:.
To disassemble the drive assembly, use the following procedure: 1. Remove plastic dust cover. Push down spring retainer and remove retainer ring. Slide off spring retainer, anti-drift spring, gear, friction washer, and engaging nut. Inspect and replace as necessary.
Use reverse procedure for assembly. Remove retainer ring from armature shaft. Remove the two nuts from the through bolts holding on the cap assembly. Slide off the cap assembly. If you are looking for information about such products and equipments you have come to the right place.
Below, you will find the required information about each carburetor that Tecumseh ever manufactured. This information will help you to distinguish between each model. Not only Tecumseh, we also provide information about many other carburetor. Our main aim is to ensure consistent flow of information about Tecumseh small engines and the related carburetors.
How to Identify a Tecumseh Carburetor Parts:. To identify the right Carburetor it is important to know all the distinguished facts and features of Tecumseh so that you can separate best from the rest.
With a large prime bulb placed on side of the carburetor Tecumseh dual system puts into use best 4-cycle crankshaft rotary mower. There are a variety of styles that are easily available in this category.
Series 1 comes in both the 2 cycle and 4 cycle variants with vertical and horizontal shaft engines that ranges from 2 to 4 Horse Power range. As compared to series 3 and series 4 these have a smaller venturi. Available in float style a distinguished fact which set apart this series from all other variants is the provision of an adjustable idle in some models and main while remaining has a similar fixed main provided with an easy to adjustable idle.
The application with fixed speed comes only with fixed main system whereas the drill option remains unavailable in the idle system. If you are using this carburetor after a long time, then make sure that it is cleaned with a high quality and recommended cleaner so that dust and varnish can be removed. Similar to standard series 1 carburetor, the emission equivalent in this series has a fixed idle as well as main.
When it is in use, the cap on idle restrictor jet is removed otherwise it remains on whole time. For identification purpose you can easily look for the fixed main jet that is a part of bowl nut in the model. Aball plug seals the passage and is easily visible from the bottom. Another added feature of this carburetor includes serviceable main nozzle emulsion tube.
Mainly used for on outboards engines, series 2 are yet another entry into the list of carburetors. As compared to series 1 these are quite similar with only difference being that it comes with a remotely adjust idle mix screw along with an in built fuel pump.
Inside the fuel pump, element alternately inflates and then deflates with the pulsations of crankcase that would alternately open and close the flap valves inside. It has been observed that deviation from this angle can damage the diaphragm. Mainly used on 8 through Identification mark is the presence of bosses, symbolic on each side of an idle mixture screw. Series 3 and 4 come with really delicate piece of distinction and these generally come with emission equivalent that has a fixed idle as well as main.
The idle restrictor of these carburetor comes with a cap that is removed as soon as the machine comes in use. Few features like fixed main jet along with bowl nut, Aball plug as well as serviceable main nozzle emulsion tube remains same as in the series 1 emission. The major point of difference among series 3 and series 4 lies on the fact that in series 3 one screw is on the throttle and choke plates whereas series 4 comes with two screws on throttle as well as choke plates.
A Vector Carburetor is a non-adjustable float feed having 1 piece extruded metallic aluminum body. All the components of these type of carburetors like float bowl, fuel bowl, needle, float, nozzle and venturi , seat and nozzle emulsion tube can easily be serviced without any need to remove the entire carburetor body out from the engine. This series of carburetors comes with each 2 and 4-cycle engines.
As compared to dual system carburetors, their venturi is comparatively larger and these make uses of a simple idle system. With all nonadjustable variants, their 4 cycle version comes with a provision of a stepped primer bulb. However few basic difference points are:. Mainly put to use in case of medium sized frame overhead valve engines with a vertical shaft, series 7 forms efficient emission grade carburetor.
Tecumseh series 7 carburetor parts comes with mounted main as well as idle jets that are ideally placed within the bowl of the carburetor. Basically all the parts can be serviced without any need to remove whole carburetor body out of the engine. Series 8 comes with both mounted as well as main idle circuit. By means of a restrictor jet, the fixed idle setup has been made possible.
Alike all the other series a models Cap feature on idle restrictor jet can also be traced down in this model. Additionally, these types also include the feature of being able to service the main nozzle within the emulsion tube along with a stepped primer bulb. Tecumseh carburetor series 9 is an associated emission that makes use of identical carburetor body as that in the case of series 8 however with a common mounted idle system that is identical to the one used in the case of series 6.
This series can easily be identified by the unique ability to service the main nozzle within the emulsion tube, stepped primer bulb and the provision of a non-drilled idle inter mixture well. These unique feature makes this carburetor different from others. With a great similarity to series 8, the series 10 has a slight difference with just an addition of choke. A fixed idle main feature is also been provided to assist easy start during cold weather.
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